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SBUX - Breaking Out of the Past

SBUX is scheduled to report fiscal 3Q09 numbers after the close next Tuesday, July 21 and I would expect the company to continue the trend of beating EPS expectations ($0.22E vs. consensus of $0.19) despite continued weakness in top-line numbers. Fiscal 3Q09 should mark a return to double digit operating margins, the first quarter of YOY operating margin improvement for SBUX since 4Q07 and the company's U.S. segment should post its first quarter of margin expansion following 12 quarters of declines. And, this is based on my expectation of a 5%-6% decline in U.S. same-store sales, which would signal a sequential improvement from the 8% decline in 2Q09.

The real benefit to margins in the quarter and going forward will stem from the company's goal to eliminate $500 million of costs in FY09, $345 million of which should be implemented by the end of 3Q09. Although SBUX will continue to feel some pressure on the cost of sales line as a result of the fixed cost nature of occupancy costs, lower dairy and coffee prices should minimize the deleveraging effect of continued same-store sale declines.

With the company having launched its first national advertising campaign in May (mid Q3), I am most interested in hearing about how the campaign is being received and the impact it is having on driving customer traffic. Specifically, was the company successful in continuing its trend from 2Q of reducing traffic losses on a sequential basis? My 5%-6% U.S. same-store sales decline estimate relies on a quarterly sequential improvement in traffic. Easier YOY comparisons, new advertising, the company's first limited time promotion of iced coffee for $1.95 (initiated in May through the end of the quarter) and the results from my May "Grass Roots Survey" all make me comfortable with this assumption.

SBUX management commented on last quarter's earnings call that the marketing campaign "will build over time" so I am not expecting that the marketing will have made a big impact on Q3 results, but increased communication to consumers can only help. The company did state that it is not significantly increasing its advertising spend and instead, it is making a long-term investment. As I have said before, I think SBUX needs to spend $300-$400 million in the U.S. to have a share of voice that will make it competitive with its peers. Although Starbucks will not get to this level of spending right away, I would like to hear more about the direction and magnitude of the new advertising campaign, which I think is essential to the long-term success of the brand.

From a cash flow perspective, SBUX should continue to demonstrate its ability to generate significant cash even in a tough environment. With an estimated 25% YOY decline in capital spending, SBUX should be able to pay down more debt in the quarter and further strengthen its balance sheet.

SBUX - Breaking Out of the Past - SBUX EBIT Margin 3Q09E



Key Takeaways:

  • Cost cutting has run its course
  • Margin pressure will accelerate as rate declines continue
  • International RevPAR declines are intensifying
  • Transient rates below group rates are a very bad thing - group rates are usually lower. Points to further downside in 2010
  • Rate driven RevPAR declines will hurt a lot more than occupancy driven RevPAR declines
  • On a positive note, defaults by owners will have no effect on MAR and other franchisee companies since the last thing to go is the flag



General Commentary:

In NA they saw stabilization in occupancy

Mix of business remains skewed to leisure transient travel

  • Corporate rate travelers decline 18% while leisure increase 12%
  • Personal group up 7%
  • Weekend occupancy was actually better than weekday occupancy

Expect pricing power to return only as occupancy recovers

Leisure the strongest, expect business travel to follow as the needs presents itself

Swine Flu is negatively affecting their 17 hotels in Mexico

Properties are aggressively controlling costs

Timeshare promotion offering 15% discounts to new owners and 25% off to existing owners

  • May consider becoming more aggressive on residential and fractional projects going forward which may result in further write-downs

Expect to continue to reduce debt levels throughout the years

Have eased brand standards where it makes sense, and deferred capital expenditures

Opened 8,000 rooms in the quarter and have 110,000 hotels in the pipeline (50% under construction)

  • Expect that US growth will be driven by conversions


Second Quarter Results:

Timeshare - some sales were likely pulled forward from future periods

Tax rate higher as revenues from lower tax jurisdictions lower

Transient room nights only declined 4% in the quarter as they replaced that business with lower rates business (government / etc). Rate decreased 19% here.

Room nights from group declined 19%.  While cancellations have subsided in recent months, however, attrition continues to deteriorate.  RevPAR declined 25% from this segment

  • Room night bookings are down 18% for the rest of the year

House profit margins only declined ~530 bps, despite the steep drop in RevPAR

  • management wages down 16%

Mexico and Asia where badly affected from the swine flu

Ritz had the worst RevPAR performance, but had a large increase in leisure travel (59%)

Delinquency rate on timeshare loans was 10% in June down from 10.2% in May.  Triggered change in payments, which reduced cash flow by $20MM.

  • FASB 166 & 167 will make them consolidate off-balance sheet loans
  • However, the covenant calculations won't be affected and don't expect any change from rating agencies in the way they look at the debt
  • Won't change the fact that its non-recourse


3rd Quarter Guidance:

 International lodging markets have significantly weakened

  • Impact from swine flu doesn't help

Much of the NA RevPAR decline will come from rate and lower rated mix

While unit expansions will help their fees, tough comps will also hurt them

Seasonality more pronounced as well in the 3rd quarter

Believe that they pulled forward some sales with the promotional activity in the 2nd quarter, therefore impacting their 3rd quarter results


Full year 2009 Guidance:

Confident that timeshare business will be cash flow positive in 2009

Reduced total fee income by 5 cents per share (weaker international and incentive fees)

Higher tax rate reduces outlook by 4 cents

Higher diluted share count due to stock dividend reduces EPS by 2 cents



Think that the impact of political rhetoric is gone, but clearly the economic pressures haven't lessened. Don't see any rebound from the economic pressures anytime soon

How much room is left to cut costs (non-occupancy related?)

  • Going forward the pricing pressures will make it more difficult to maintain margins, especially as cost cutting comps become more difficult
  • On the corporate front they continue to look at overhead - doesn't sound like it

How are they positioning themselves for future growth opportunities?

  • Maintaining a strong balance sheet to take advantage of any opportunities that arise
  • Paying attention to asset trades that drive conversions and reflagging fees
  • Expect more defaults or the number of delinquent loans to increase... still not a lot out there yet

Seeing transient rates fall below group rate - how will this effect group rates?

  • Pace of decline in rate is still accelerating while occupancy has stabilized... could be a big issue for group business

Impact of more cuts from airlines?

  • Corporates just aren't traveling

Timeshare - top-line is the same but profitability is worse

  • As default rates accelerate they don't get interest on their residual, they also had the write down this quarter
  • Services revenues related to unused rooms that are sold have also dropped as rate has dropped
  • Plus the tax item (8-9MM)
  • Rating agencies - each one looks at the timeshare business a little differently (left it vague)


International Commentary:

  • China - high supply growth and travel restrictions have outweighed stronger economy
  • India - very small market, also has very weak RevPAR
  • US: DC is still one of the best markets
  • Middle East is a relatively strong performer (Saudi & Egypt stronger)
  • Europe is average

If RevPAR stays negative will they get little to no incentive fees going forward?

  • When they report incentive fees they do it on a run-rate basis and then have to make adjustments if it results deteriorate on a TTM basis. (basically we think that they are paying back fees that were previously accrued)
  • Don't need to have positive RevPAR to get incentive fees because some contracts pay them off the top (like in some international markets). But generally negative RevPAR will have negative impact on incentive fees.

How does a recovery look like?

  • It is not unusual for leisure customers to be pursued more aggressively and respond more quickly to discounting and therefore fill in lower demand periods
  • Will not be able to drive pricing through leisure though - group/business will really need to drive pricing

Incentive fees lower, why?

  • International much worse
  • Rate is worse so margins (even if occupancy is better) will be worse (that's why we're negative on 2010 for owners)

Occupancy (mid-60's) is starting to level off, but rate continues to weaken. But until occupancy improves they don't have any pricing power.

Courtyard is all transient business travel - hence it's performing worse than many limited service brands

Business on the books for next year is down significantly (about 20%).

  • Not a meaningful number because a lot of the business booked in 2008 for 2009 was cancelled
  • Right now they have a very short booking window. Meeting planners are all sitting on the sidelines looking for better deals

Composition of development pipeline

  • 50% under construction
  • 6-7% conversions
  • 30% is international
  • 60% is limited service in North America, predominantly franchise
  • Balance is international and mostly management
  • Think that they will continue to add rooms in 2010 - don't know how many
  • Conversions vs new builds - only had 2 conversions in the 2nd Quarter, expect 8-10% for the balance of the year to be conversions

What percentage of management or franchised hotels is in some state of default?

  • Cash defaults on debt payments - very few
  • Hotels financed in 2005-2007, and if they were financed aggressively may be in trouble, but most of that was floating rate debt - so those owners have also benefitted from very low rates
  • Defaults will depend on how long this malaise will continue... if the recovery is fast there will be less defaults because owners will fund the shortfall... we take the other side of that though.. we don't think it'll be a fast recovery
  • We would note that even if a hotel defaults on its bank financing this DOES NOT mean that the property will be de-flagged. Normally banks will keep the flag and pay the fees.



The number of U.S. workers filing new claims for jobless benefits fell sharply last week to the lowest level since January (the seasonally adjusted data was again distorted by an unusual pattern of automotive industry.)  The claim figure is now 23% below the peak they hit in March.

We now have jobless claims getting better BIG TIME in the last three weeks!  Two weeks ago the jobless number came in at 617,000, last week 565,000 and this 522,000.  That trend speaks to a real improvement not deterioration in claims. 


Our view is that the rate of change in jobless and unemployment is in the rear view mirror and is a lagging indicator.  The point we are trying to make is that we are passed the apex in job losses, something most people disagree with. 

While we are focused on what happens on the margin, which means people are losing their jobs at a slowing pace, it is still as hard as ever to find a new job.  As more people join the ranks of long term unemployed or underemployed, we run the risk of a 90's Japanese style period of job stagnation.

 Ultimately, consumer spending and sentiment will be buoyed by rising employment rather that declining job losses. Last December, President Obama went on record saying that he aimed to create 2.5 million jobs over two years.  He has some work left to do!


Howard Penney

Managing Director


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Sloppy quarter and disappointing guidance.  Not good a good signal for the rest of the lodgers including HOT.

MAR reported EPS of $0.23 which was spot in line with our estimate. However, the numbers were sloppy this quarter with $57MM of exclusions; $33MM related to restructuring charges, and $24MM related to the revaluation of residual interests from prior note sales.  We're not sure that the write-downs in this quarter will be the last ones we see.  Guidance for the third quarter was disappointing and full year guidance was lowered with the primary culprits being worse international RevPAR and lower incentive fees.   Not a good start to the lodging earnings season.

2Q09 results:

  • NA comparable company operated RevPAR came in at -23.4%, in line with mgmt guidance of -20 to -25%
  • International comparable company operated RevPAR at -31.5% was materially worse than company guidance of -17 to 20%, partially impacted by swine flu
  • Base management and franchise fees came in a touch better than our expectations; however, incentive fees came in 8MM worse.
  • Owned, leased, corporate house and other revenues came in 10MM below our estimate, while margin was materially better than we expected, contributing to a higher net result.
  • Timeshare revenues came in 11MM better than our estimate but margins were materially worse due to the $12MM write down of residual interests
  • G&A was in line with our estimate if you exclude the systems write down and accounts receivable charge offs

3Q09 Guidance of $0.09 to $0.14 is below street expectations of $0.20 for the quarter and below our estimate of $0.15 cents.  RevPAR guidance was not "less bad" as we think many investors and sell side analysts were hoping for.  Incentive fee guidance couldn't be any worse.

 Full year 2009 guidance was lowered

  • NA comparable company operated RevPAR guidance reaffirmed -17 to -20%
  • International comparable company operated RevPAR guidance lowered by 400bps to -17 to -20%
  • Fee income was lowered to $1,030 to 1,060MM from prior guidance of $1,050 to $1,100MM, primarily driven by lower incentive fees
  • MAR lowered the high end of the range by $5MM for owned, leased, corporate housing and other revenues, net of direct expenses to $55 to $60MM
  • Lowered timeshare segment results by $5MM to $25MM
  • Increased full year G&A guidance by $5MM to $585 to $605MM
  • Lowered EPS guidance to $0.76 to $0.86 from $0.88 to $1.02
  • Lowered investment spending by $25MM to $325 to $375MM



Las Vegas Sands Corp released a statement Wednesday, announcing their intention to amend its Macau bank loans of about $3.4 billion.  An IPO of its Macau operations is still under consideration, but it will require the consent of lenders. 

A spokesman refused to elaborate on a timeframe for the lender discussions or disclose the degree to which banks are being asked to relax covenant restrictions.



Two companies controlled by Chief Executive Edmund Ho Hau-wah have sold their combined 1.25% stake in Air Macau to a subsidiary of mainland flag carrier Air China.   The private sale comes just weeks after shareholders of the loss-making and technically insolvent Macau airline voted for a government-backed MOP 507.3 million rescue package. 

The selling of the stake will ease concerns over conflict of interest regarding the bailout plan and rescue the family from having to dedicate additional capital into the troubled airline.  Mr. Ho was a founding member of Air Macau in 1994. 



Chui Sai On, the sole candidate for the position of Chief Executive of Macau, stated on Wednesday that he will examine the issues of the SAR's gaming tax and declining gaming revenues.  In a meeting the members of the General Association of Administrators and Promoters for Macao Gaming Industry, Chui stopped short of disclosing any specific measures and instead promised to study the issues gaming tax and declining gaming revenues. 

Presently, Macau casinos pay almost 40% of total revenues to Macau's government.  This income provides over 70% of the SAR government's total revenues.  Other nations such as Singapore may join the Asian gaming market in the near future.  Macau clearly needs to ensure competitiveness in Asia and Chui has pledged to create a better environment for the gaming companies to operate in.

Retail First Look: VFC – I Don’t Get It


16 JULY 2009


VFC is quickly rising to the top of my 'how the heck can they make the quarter' list.  Levi's all-around weak results on Tuesday were rather telling (Levi has a bigger denim biz than VFC). Denim is not exactly knocking the cover off the ball right now. VFC's high margin The North Face business is slowing, company-wide retail is having a tough go at it this quarter, and Nautica is - well, Nautica. Make no mistake - this is a deal story. VFC needs an acquisition big time, and I don't like stories that hinge on buying assets. With ZQK shoring up its balance sheet it no longer needs to sell DC shoes (which VFC would like to own) so it comes as no surprise that VFC is throwing  its hat in the ring for Eddie Bauer. Not sure if I get that one. One might ask if an Eddie Bauer deal is meaningful enough to save 2H numbers. I think not.  Eddie Bauer has just shy of $1bn in revs, and barely $10mm in EBIT. This is a 'fix me' story. Even if VFC got it for free, it would hardly be accretive. If it only got the more profitable pieces, then it takes up the complexity of the transaction. The bottom line is that I am at $4.40 for this year, and am struggling to get there. We could conceivable see a $0.40 miss from the Street's $4.84. 

LIZ better aligning comp with shareholders? Ok, was I the only one was bowled over to see that Bill McComb's employment agreement was re-upped for 3-years just 6 months after being renewed in December? There's always a reason for such actions, and I can assure you that this one was not because 'the stock price has done so dang well that we gotta stay married.' I have a meeting with LIZ in a week's time - so this will be an important issue to delve into. But in reviewing both agreements with my colleague Michelle Leder, it appears that the only meaningful change (aside from duration) is higher severance in the event of a change in control trigger.  These things can always be interpreted many different ways, but the bottom line from my perspective is that he is getting paid more to the extent that this puppy gets flat-out sold.  I like that.



Some Notable Call Outs

- WMT Goes Samurai?  Interesting speculation that Wal-Mart might reopen the Samurai Bond market for US investors. Really mixed signals there from our perspective. On one hand, it's good for the companies that can do it... i.e. those that have the trust of those that could buy the debt, and can presumably leave the cash outside of the US to fund growth instead of repatriating cash and getting dinged with tax penalty. But not a good signal when a major US stalwart like Wal*Mart finds Japanese soil a better source of funds than the Ozarks. Keith summed it up in fewer words... "Bad for patriots.  Good for capitalists. The US capital markets are no longer endowments."

- Looking below the surface of Wolverine's (WWW) inline 2Q results reveals some interesting and noteworthy trends. First, the company reported there was an acceleration in same store sales in the middle of the quarter in its owned retail stores and ecommerce business. This is consistent with weekly NPD data we watch carefully, but also a noteworthy improvement as we inch closer to the key back to school selling season. Second, the company offered some very detailed insight into trends in at-once and futures orders. The takeaway here is that the uncertainty in the US retail environment remains high. The shift from futures to at-once is substantial, with lead times shrinking by 5 weeks y/y for customers requesting delivery at-once and by 7 weeks for futures orders. Two-thirds of the orders in the quarter were categorized as "at-once" vs. 50% in 2Q08. The net trade off here is higher gross margins at the expense of generally higher inventory levels.

- At a conference yesterday, Gymboree management was asked a question about sourcing opportunities and the impact on product cost reductions. Management responded by saying there are still many opportunities out there and that they are testing Africa as a new sourcing alternative. This is the first mention I've seen of Africa for apparel product procurement, ever.

- While still a relatively small player in the denim market, Joe's Jeans had some interesting commentary on pricing in the premium denim category. The company recently introduced an opening price point product at $138, which was below the $145 to $179 range in the existing line. Management expected the lower price point to do well, especially in this environment. However, results have been below expectations leaving the belief that the fashion denim category purchase is driven more by emotion than by price. While we can't disagree with reality of this data, we can say that the market for premium denim is certainly smaller than it once was. There will always be a niche for premium goods, but the current environment will keep a cap on the market opportunities that were once thought to be endless.



- US Commerce Secretary Gary Locke working with China to open up trade relationship - China must do more to open its domestic markets to U.S. goods, services and investment as the countries seek to combat the global economic crisis, U.S. Commerce Secretary Gary Locke said on Wednesday.  Locke, on his first official visit to China, said U.S.-China relations were the most important trade relationship in the world, and he outlined crucial issues to be jointly addressed. Chief among them are climate change; working to lower China's trade surplus and increase its domestic consumption; speeding up currency reform, and avoiding protectionist policies amid the financial crisis. In Washington, the International Trade Commission said Wednesday, it has initiated the first trade remedy investigation of textile products from China since quotas were lifted at the end of last year. The ITC said in a Federal Register notice it received a complaint on July 9 that "narrow woven ribbon with woven selvedge" from China and Taiwan was being dumped into the U.S. market or is being subsidized in ways that injure U.S. companies. The petition, filed by Berwick Offray LLC and subsidiary Lion Ribbon Co., referenced the lifting of the textile and apparel quotas as a key factor. A public hearing on the matter is scheduled for July 30, after which the ITC will issue its decision on whether there is sufficient injury to the U.S. industry for the case to proceed. A determination should be made by the end of next month, according to an ITC spokeswoman. <wwd.com/footwear-news>

- India's cotton exports expected to shrink from lighter Chinese demand - India's cotton exports are expected to shrink for this year due to decreasing Chinese demand and lower production combined with higher state purchase prices, according to the Cotton Association of India. Exports are likely to drop 59% to 3.5 million bales in 2008/09, with total output expected to fall 7.4% to 29.18 million bales. China, which is experiencing a slowdown in its textile industry affected by the global economic crisis, is the largest destination for Indian cotton, accounting for over 70% exports. <fashionnetasia.com>

- No sign of Vietnamese footwear recovery - There is no sign of recovery in Vietnam's footwear sector for the year despite recent uptake of textile and apparel exports in the last couple of months.  According to Vietnam Leather and Footwear Association,  footwear exports in the first five months of 2009 can reach US $2 billion compared to the target of $5 billion. The European Union accounted for a majority share of footwear exports from the country and the sector has also been able to increase exports to the US by 9%, when compared with the same period of 2008, the association said. <fashionnetasia.com>

- California lawmakers appeared close to a deal late Wednesday to resolve the state's budget crisis - Economists said the budget circus has created widespread uncertainty, which is a drag on the state economy, as the engines of economic growth - large employers and consumers - stall until they can be reasonably confident the government has its house in order.  Like other apparel designers struggling through the recession, Karyn Craven, founder of Burning Torch, a decade-old Los Angeles-based contemporary apparel brand, has narrowed her focus to survive. She downsized her staff and trimmed the company's offerings by about 30 percent, focusing on unique pieces using vintage or recycled materials. The state has been paying creditors with IOUs for only the second time since the Great Depression because Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger and the legislature have been unable to agree on how to close a $26.3 billion budget deficit. <wwd.com/footwear-news>

- CIT Group's government funding looks bleak - CIT Group Inc. said late Wednesday it has been told there is "no appreciable likelihood" of government funding in the near term. <sportsonesource.com>

- Eddie Bauer may be headed to a liquidation sale - Reports state that Monarch Alternative Capital and Anchorage Advisors, the two lenders that control Eddie Bauer's $200 million in debt, may bring in Hilco Consumer Capital and Gordon Brothers to create a bid that would liquidate Eddie Bauer's stores. <sportsonesource.com>

- Toning footwear that promise to firm muscles are expected to become a $100 million category in 2009 - Yet, it's still a category in its infancy. Brands such as MBT, Ryn and FitFlop have earned a cult following, broadening their distribution significantly in the last year or two, and now mainstream brands such as Reebok and Skechers are getting in on the action. More major brands are sure to follow, said Matt Powell, a footwear analyst with SportsOneSource. "It's still emerging at this point, but it's starting to feel like its going to be a really big deal," he said. "People are starting to talk about it the way they talked about aerobics back in the mid-'80s." Mr. Powell estimates the category will reach $100 million in retail sales this year. And though that's a fraction of the roughly $1 billion walking category and $5 billion running category, he says toning footwear is the kind of thing that could "catch on like wildfire." "Pretty much everybody is aware of it, but some have chosen not to play yet," he added. "This could revive the walking category, which has been dormant for 10 years." <adage.com>

- CNBC highlights Under Armour's Recharge suit - The Recharge is a compression suit that the company has designed for athletes to wear for 24 hours after their big workouts. Under Armour says it helps reduce swelling and soreness time and re-energizes the body for the next workout. "Right now we're seeing this on athletes across all major sports leagues -- NHL, NFL and MLB -- so it's starting at the top level," said David Ayers, Under Armour's director of product creation. "But this is a science that can benefit all athletes, from guys and girls just getting off the couch for the first time and are just going out for a run and feeling aches and pains the next day. It's as much for them as it is for the world class athlete." Under Armour worked with the University of Connecticut to test athletes and to support the claims for this product. For optimal results, the company recommends athletes put it on within two hours of finishing a workout and wear it for 24 hours. Both the top ($99.99) and the leggings ($89.99) are being sold separately and could be seen as steeply priced in this economy. Ayers says the cost is all relative. <cnbc.com>

- Footwear CPI prices increased 1.6%year over year in June - Footwear prices increased 0.2% in June and advanced 1.6% from a year earlier, the Labor Department said Wednesday in its Consumer Price Index. Women's footwear prices declined 0.3% in June, and dropped 0.9% in 12-month comparisons. The cost of men's footwear declined 0.5% in June, while rising 2.1% year-over-year. Boys' and girls' footwear prices rose 1% in June, and spiked 6.4% compared with a year earlier. Retail apparel prices, which include footwear, rose a seasonally adjusted 0.7% in June while advancing 1.5% compared with a year earlier. Apparel prices declined 0.2% in March, April and May. Prices for all goods and services advanced 0.7% in June, but declined 1.4% year-to-year. The monthly increase was driven by a significant jump in gas prices. <wwd.com/footwear-news>

- LLBean and Sears top the list of online website availability and quality connection in June - Web shoppers could access a top 50 retailer web site with a high broadband connection an average of 98.90% of the time in June. That availability compares with an average of 91.88% for a low broadband connection and 74.49% for dial-up, says Gomez Inc. The web retailer with the best high broadband availability rate in June was LLBean.com at 99.76%, followed by Sears.com at 99.64%, Newegg.com at 99.62% and ColdwaterCreek.com at 99.59%. Sears.com also had the most consistent low broadband and dial-up availability in June at 98.61% and 98.04%, respectively. <internetretailer.com>

- Bill Gates ups his stake in JJB sporting goods company - Billionaire Bill Gates has taken a stake in embattled sports retailer JJB. The Microsoft tycoon made the acquisition through the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation, the philanthropic organisation created to "help all people lead healthy, productive lives". On Tuesday the foundation, which is also supported by legendary investor Warren Buffett, increased its holding from 7,072,405 shares to 7,872,405 taking the stake to 3.14%. <retail-week.com>

- Wal-Mart to close deal on acquisition of Russian retail real estate company - According to unofficial reports of retail market insiders, Wal-Mart Stores Inc. has initiated negotiations to acquire 100% stake in the Russian retail real estate company OOO Torgovy Dom Kopeyka which owns 49 properties in Russia. One of the top managers of Finansovaya korporatsiya URALSIB OAO said that Wal-Mart made a preliminary written offer in June. According to this manager, Kopeika has not accepted the offer formally yet, but it is planning to do it in August 2009. Nikolay Tsvetkov may keep a minority stake in the company. It is estimated that Kopeyka may be worth between $280 million and $630 million. Esmerk reported that Corporate Relations Director of Wal-Mart in Russia and Eastern Europe, Konstantin Dubinin, has not commented on this information.

- Wal-Mart going green and leading the way - Wal-Mart is expected to introduce an index that would determine the social and environmental impact of all the products it sells today during a Web cast of its Sustainability Milestone Meeting. The index could help buyers decide what items to put in stores; consumers referring to the index could see how brands compare in the sustainability department. The move has lots of implications, including potentially higher costs for manufacturers. There could also be more competition among brands for shelf space as manufacturers vie for higher rankings. The initial setup for new methods of manufacturing might be a cost added for Wal-Mart's producers, but long-term, it certainly will be a benefit. <wwd.com/retail-news>

- UK lingerie supplier files for bankrupcty - Lingerie supply giant Intimas has collapsed into administration after it was hit by the weak sterling and tough trading. <drapersonline.com>

- Ossie Clark label closing - The iconic Ossie Clark label, which relaunched last year, is shutting down. "Due to market conditions, developing the business has been challenging and the decision has been made to cease trading,'' a company spokesman said Wednesday. Brothers Marc and Julian Worth, clothing business veterans, hoped to turn Ossie Clark into a global designer brand. They had an exclusive licensing deal with Alfred Radley, a manufacturer who purchased Clark's business in 1968. Marc Worth never disclosed how much he paid for the license, although he told WWD in 2007 he planned to invest "a seven-figure sum'' in the overall project. <wwd.com/business-news>

- Yolanda Cellucci's 41 yr old bridal shop shuts down - After dressing tens of thousands of brides in the last 41 years, Yolanda Cellucci will close her one-stop bridal and ready-to-wear boutique, salon, spa and cafe in Waltham, Mass., next month. <wwd.com/retail-news>

- New board of advisors for men's footwear company Vael - Bourgeoning men's footwear and accessories company Vael unveiled a new creative board of advisors Thursday to assist the growing brand. The Santa Barbara, Calif.-based brand, which launched its collection of shoes and bags for fall '08 and has been tapped to create a special-edition shoe for the Project trade show in September, has recruited a group of advisors with longtime connections to the streetwear market, including the founders of Stussy and Mossimo. "We have put together an advisory board of iconoclasts who represent the best and most creative minds in the fashion industry," said Vael founder and Creative Director M. Coleman Horn, in a statement. "These are pioneers in the fashion industry ... and Vael is fortunate to have their support and expertise as a driving force behind our success as a new brand." <wwd.com/footwear-news>

- U.S. Army secures footwear licensing deal - A line of U.S. Army-trademarked footwear and bags from the Philip Simon Group will be shown in August at MAGIC. The deal was brokered by The Beanstalk Group, which represents the U.S. Army. The multiyear deal will see the development of fashion and athletic footwear and bags featuring vintage Army aesthetics and street-chic styles. "We want to create a footwear line that expresses and conveys the ideals of the U.S. Army, but in a fashionable way," says Philip Chemla, president of PSFG. "This line will embody the idealistic aspects that define the U.S. Army and translate them into functional and fashionable shoes and bags. The patriotic homage combined with bright accent colors and cool styles will appeal to consumers across the board." <licensemag.com>



LIZ: Andrew Warren, CFO, sold 2,837shs ($7k) less than 10% of common holdings.

LIZ: Nicholas Rubino, SVP & Chief Legal Officer, sold 434shs ($1,100) less than 5% of common holdings.

ARO: John Howard, Director, sold 2,093shs ($75k) less than 5% of common holdings as a charitable contribution.



Retail First Look: VFC – I Don’t Get It - SV 7 16 09