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SEPTEMBER 29, 2009




There’s a flurry of upgrades/downgrades this morning in retail. These are notable to me…

  • How can we not highlight Goldman upgrading Ralph Lauren at $74? I definitely think that RL has among the best stability and highest unrealized earnings power in the group – so I am not arguing with this call.  But the September 2007 upgrade to ‘Buy’ with the stock in the mid $90s still haunts me. Admittedly, I was one of the analysts that liked it then too. But I need to keep this call in check to make sure it’s not becoming consensus.
  • WRC initiated Buy at BofA/Merrill. I think the analyst there does good work, so it was a head-turner for me. There are secular margin headwinds here, license loss risk, and downright poor quality of management. Sell sentiment is quite high (80% of ratings are Buy), short interest is re-testing lows, and management is selling. Haven’t we seen this story before?
  • Under Armour (UA) target increased to $24 from $19 at Weisel; rating remains market weight on valuation and execution risk. Yet again, I maintain that staying on the sidelines because of valuation and widely hated near-term factors is a dangerous game.  UA remains of our favorite longs.




Some Notable Call Outs

  • Despite an optimal calendar setup, Halloween spending is expected to be down 15% this year due to less participation and less overall spending on this highly discretionary event.  The number of consumers planning to celebrate Halloween is estimated to drop from 64.5% last year to 62.1%, according to BIGresearch.  Of those participating, 88% plan to spend less than last year.
  • WAG reported better than expected Q4 results, driven largely by cost savings generated by the “Rewiring for Growth” initiative and better gross margin. Sales, which were already released on a monthly basis as incurred, were generally below expectations for the quarter. In addition, while largely expected, management announced specific store growth plans for fiscal ’10 (+4.5%-5%) and fiscal ’11 (+2.5%-3%). The company continues to pare back growth as it looks to become more profitable and is no longer growing for the sake of growth.
  • In the near term, flu season trends will remain top of mind. Although is still too early to tell, the drugstore sector will likely be one of the biggest beneficiaries in terms of foot traffic if the flu season continues to build at what is now historic rates. However, given the uncertainty with predicting exactly how the virus may or may not spread, it is unlikely we will hear WAG management banking on such a trend.
  • In the wake of last week’s announcement, we think Aeropostale’s naming of co-CEOs to succeed Julian Geiger is definitely unusual . In essence, the company is pitting the current Chief Merchant against the Chief Operating Officer to be the new CEO. That might not be the tag line, but have you EVER seen a ‘co-CEO’ model work long term? When you ultimately have to sacrifice one half of the brain for the other (ops or merchandise) only flawless execution can make the story end well.  
  • Spain's textile companies asked the government to save the industry by introducing an aid package. Key Spanish manufacturers like Dogi, Fuentecapala, and Caramelo are on the verge of bankruptcy due to the economic recession. The textile aid package will need to include measures to boost credit and financing lines to struggling producers. Our sense is that they have all the leverage they need – especially with yesterday’s decision by the government to take up VAT taxes to help the economy.
  • Italian and Spanish footwear manufacturers are preparing to fight for the extension of the anti-dumping laws that have been in effect since 2006.  The decision to maintain or end the 16.5% tariff on Chinese footwear and 10% tax on Vietnamese shoes is due October 22 and will take place January 2010.  Nike and Adidas will be on the other side of this battle, fighting to end the tariffs.



As we often say at Research Edge, prices don’t lie. The market is always telling us something. Here are some names that are showing outsided movements relative to the market, peers, and volume trends...

1)      OXM: 4x outperformance on the day with 20% volume acceleration.

2)      WSM: price improving on a sequential basis looking at 1 day, 1 week and 3 week trend – all on accelerating volume.

3)      LIZ: High volume on big underperformance. This was on GS downgrade. I’m comfortable taking the other side of this on a 6-9 month duration.


Retail Upgrade/Downgrade Day - 1



-UK Insurance industry VAT liability set to increase - The insurance industry could incur increased VAT liabilities and associated costs under new rules, according to consultant Moore Stephens. The company warned that under changes to the VAT international services rules, which take effect on 1 January 2010, they could incur increased costs on certain services bought in from any country outside the UK. It also warned that, under the changes, many more non-VAT-registered businesses could find themselves caught in the VAT net. <broking.co.uk>

-Japan's July apparel imports rise in volume but fall in value - According to the Japan Textiles Importers Association, July apparel imports fell by 11.4% from the year before to 164.4 billion yen. Meanwhile, the import volume increased by 3.6% to 303.77 million units. Although the import volume increased for the second straight month, the value posted a double-digit decrease for the first time in two months. The figures indicate that the Japanese market is heading toward lower priced goods. <yarnsandfibers.com>

-Punjab expects 10% increase in VAT collections - Notwithstanding the current slowdown, Punjab is hopeful of registering an increase of 10-15% in VAT(Value Added Tax) collection in the financial year 2009-10 over the last financial year. However, the VAT collection in the first five months of the current fiscal year is not very encouraging as the state registered an increase of only 7 per cent over the corresponding period last year. According to the data, in the first five months of the current fiscal year(April-August 2009), the state managed to collect Rs 3,310 crore as VAT as compared to Rs 3,100 crore it collected during the corresponding period (April-August 2008) last year. That amounted to a growth of 7 per cent over the corresponding period of the last year. <business-standard.com>

-Pakistan government imposes no duty on imported textile machinery and equipment - Pakistan's textile sector welcomes the government's decision to impose zero-duty on imported textile machinery and equipment which is a part of the new textile policy. Zubair Motiwala, advisor to Sindh Chief Minister said: "The implementation of the Textile Policy in full spirit will help the textile industry to get back on its feet and the country will be able to compete with its rivals in international textile market". He added: "Due to extreme pressure on textile exporters and high overheads, Pakistan was unable to compete even against Bangladesh, which exported clothing and apparel worth $11 billion." <fashionnetasia.com>

-Even the most coveted retail spots in the world are not immune to a drop in rent prices - According to New York-based Cushman & Wakefield’s “Main Streets Across the World” report, 54% of the 274 streets monitored by the real estate firm have seen prime rents take a dip, while 18% have seen premier asking rents rise. Of the 10 most expensive shopping streets in the world most have seen rents fall or stay flat. The biggest rent drops globally occurred for Colaba Causeway in Mumbai, India, which saw a nearly 64% drop this year; and Sao Conrado Fashion Mall in Rio de Janeiro, which fell 53%. The Calea Victoriei shopping area in Bucharest, Romania, dropped 48% , the report showed. But a few premier retail areas did see increases, included Alameda Lorena in Sao Paulo, where rents vaulted 111%; and Munich, Germany’s Kaufingerstrasse, which reported a 7% boost in rents. <wwd.com/footwear-news>

-Zumiez preannounced better than expected earnings, margins, and revenue - Zumiez Inc. said that based on better than planned quarter-to-date sales and product margins, it is increasing its expected sales and earnings guidance for the quarter ending October 31.. September month-to-date comparable store sales increased 0.8% while quarter-to-date comparable store sales declined 7.7% for the four and eight week periods ended September 26. <sportsonesource.com>

-Carrefour under pressure - Carrefour SA and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA on Monday declined to comment on reports the French retail giant could be under pressure from its biggest investors to sell operations in the fast-growing Chinese and Latin American markets. Investment firm Colony Capital LLC and billionaire Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH, hold a 13.5 percent stake in Carrefour. <wwd.com/business-news>

-Apparel giant VF Corp. has tapped Susan Kellogg as president of its contemporary brands coalition - Kellogg was most recently chief executive officer of Elie Tahari Inc. and is a 25-year industry veteran. She joined Tahari in January 2008 and resigned from her position in March. At Tahari she was charged with helping the company’s domestic and global growth, overseeing the company’s wholesale, retail and global sales in women’s and men’s apparel and accessories. Prior to Tahari Kellogg held positions with Liz Claiborne and Macy’s West. At VF, she succeeds Mike Egeck, who the company said left in June for personal reasons. Egeck spent six years with VF before leaving to take over as ceo of Seven For All Mankind in August 2006. VF acquired Seven for an estimated $775 million in July 2007, naming Egeck head of the newly formed contemporary brands coalition in the process. <wwd.com/business-news>

-Cabela’s Inc. hired Scott Frnka as vice president of merchandising – General Outdoors. Frnka, most recently vice president of Academy Sports and Outdoors’ Field and Stream Division, brings more than 15 years of retail merchandising experience to the multi-channel retailer of hunting, fishing and outdoor gear. <sportsonesource.com>

-Aeropostale names co-CEOs to succeed Julian Geiger - The multichannel apparel retailer has appointed Mindy Meads, a former executive of Victoria’s Secret and Sears, and former Brooks Brothers executive Thomas Johnson as co-CEOs to succeed Julian Geiger. <internetretailer.com>

-Hanesbrand's Bali Company Introduces Its New Natural Uplift Bra - Bali Company has introduced its new Natural Uplift bra that features advanced lift for the bust without adding size. The patent-pending lift innovation delivers just the right amount of lift and side support for beautiful shape and comfort, with full coverage to prevent spillover. The Bali 'Natural Uplift' bra, which will be available in department stores in September, helps women Live Beautifully(R) by providing a solid foundation to uplift women from the inside out. <businesswire.com>

-Nike announced a change in reporting which gives more disclosure on China's success - Nike Inc. said in a SEC filing released yesterday that NIKE brand's sales in its Greater China segment – including China, Taiwan and Hong Kong – rose 29% in its fiscal year ended May 31, to $1.74 billion from $1.35 billion a year ago. In constant currencies, sales climbed 21%. In the filing, Nike Inc. broke out its past year's results under a new regional structure of the way it reports the performance of the brand. <sportsonesource.com>

-Fossil’s vintage roots are coming through this spring in classic men’s looks with a modern point of view - Clean-cut dress oxfords, traditional maritime looks and chic driving mocs are detailed in washed and burnished leathers for an added level of comfort. Even sneakers are done simply in suede and canvas lace-up and slip-on styles. The collection retails from $20 for a beach flip-flop to $158 for an oxford, available at select Dillard’s and Macy’s stores, as well as online retailers Zappos.com and Piperlime.com. <wwd.com/footwear-news>

-Adidas became the official matchball and referee kit supplier to the European Rugby Cup (ERC) - Under the sponsorship deal with the ERC, adidas will provide the official match ball for both the Heineken Cup and newly titled Amlin Challenge Cup. <sportsonesource.com>

-Max Azria receives $403mm asset-based credit facility - Max Azria's private 20-year-old BCBG Max Azria Group of Vernon, CA just received a $403 million asset-based credit facility.  Azria can extend the amount to $450 million under certain conditions. GE Capital, Corporate, Corporate Retail Finance of Norwalk CT acted as co-collateral agent in the deal. BCBG  has more than 13,500 retail and wholesale points of sale worldwide. <realestatechannel.com>